As the shimmering landscape of the Indian jewellery market undergoes a seismic shift, the long-standing monopoly of mined stones is facing a sophisticated challenger. India, long the world’s ‘back office’ for diamond polishing, has emerged as a frontrunner in the production of lab-grown diamonds (LGDs), sparking a nationwide debate over tradition, value, and the very definition of a ‘real’ diamond. Also read | India defines a ‘diamond’ amid lab-grown surge, US tariff woes
From service to creator
Shweta Singla, the founder of the jewellery label Timanti, believes this evolution is more than just a pricing trend; it is a fundamental reconfiguration of how Indian consumers perceive luxury. The transition from mined to lab-grown is particularly poignant in a country where diamonds are deeply intertwined with heritage.
While the domestic market is still maturing, in an interview with HT Lifestyle, Shweta notes a budding sense of pride in these high-tech gems. “I don’t think the majority of Indian consumers are there quite yet, but this is a relatively new and powerful shift,” Shweta says.
She highlights that India’s role has expanded from a service provider to a creator, stating, “India has always been the global hub for diamond cutting and polishing, but with lab-grown, we’re now part of the entire value chain — from growing to setting the final piece.” This shift resonates with a younger demographic that values both innovation and locality.
“Consumers, especially younger ones, appreciate that what they’re buying is not just beautiful, but also homegrown innovation and that they are buying into sustainability,” Shweta explains, adding that the process feels more transparent and closer to them, compared to natural diamonds that often pass through multiple countries before reaching the end customer’.
The ‘real diamond’ debate: physics vs origin
Despite the technological prowess behind LGDs, the industry still battles the stigma of being labelled ‘artificial’. Shweta is quick to correct this terminology, arguing that the stone’s physics should dictate its description. “A lab-grown diamond is not a simulant like cubic zirconia — it’s a diamond, with the same chemical, physical, and optical properties as a mined one,” she asserts.
To Shweta, the distinction is purely geographical: “The only difference between the two is their origin: one is formed under the earth, and the other is grown in a controlled environment that replicates those exact conditions, the correct terminology to describe them is ‘mined’ versus ‘lab grown’, not real versus artificial.” This education-first approach appears to be working, as Shweta observes that ‘hesitation turning into curiosity — and more often than not, acceptance and adoption’.
Redefining heirlooms: can lab-grown carry sentiment?
For the middle-class bride, the decision often balances emotional legacy against practical economics. The question of whether a lab-grown stone can ever be a true ‘heirloom’ is one Shweta greets with nuance. “Emotion doesn’t solely come from geology and origin,” she argues, ‘rather, it stems from meaning’.
While acknowledging that natural diamonds will continue to enjoy a space built on rarity and generational legacy, she sees LGDs ‘inching into this territory’. Shweta says: “We already have customers who are buying lab-grown diamonds not just for personal expression, but as a way of gifting and commemorating occasions and milestones. Once this emotional connection is established with a piece of jewellery, the possibility of it becoming an heirloom significantly increases.”
Practical advice for the middle-class bride
When advising brides directly, Shweta suggests a pragmatic assessment of their goals. “I would say — start by being clear about your priority,” she advises. For those looking for a financial safety net, she admits that ‘natural diamonds still hold an edge due to market structure’ if the primary lens is to ‘store some value for the long term’.
However, for the modern bride who prioritises the aesthetic experience, the trade-off is clear. “If your focus is maximising design, diamond size, everyday wearability, ease of travel, sustainability and budget, lab-grown diamonds offer incredible value,” Shweta notes, highlighting that many are choosing the lab-grown path because ‘it allows them to get a larger, better-quality piece without financial strain’.
Sustainability as a secondary driver
Sustainability, often touted as a primary marketing pillar for LGDs, is now a powerful secondary motivator. While Shweta admits that ‘price definitely plays a role — it’s often the entry point’, she believes the ethical narrative solidifies the purchase.
“Once consumers learn about the reduced environmental and ethical concerns, it helps them feel even more confident about their choice,” Shweta says, adding, “It ultimately makes them feel really good about their purchase decision. So I wouldn’t call it the primary trigger yet, but it’s increasingly becoming an important part of the decision-making process.”
The future of the diamond market
The future of the industry, according to Shweta, is one of coexistence rather than replacement. She envisions a market where ‘natural diamonds are increasingly being positioned as rare, collectable pieces, almost like art or legacy assets’, while lab-grown diamonds ‘are democratising access to fine jewellery and becoming the default choice for everyday luxury, bridal wear, and gifting’. She draws a parallel to the history of the pearl industry, suggesting that both types of stones ‘will simply play very different roles in the market’.
Crucial to this future is the establishment of trust through regulation, such as the BIS standards (IS 19469:2025). “Clarity builds trust and this move has been very important for the industry,” Shweta says. She believes standardised labelling is a safeguard for the entire ecosystem.
“It removes ambiguity and protects both the buyer and credible brands. It adds that added layer of security when it comes to buyback or exchange and is very crucial as an investment asset,” Shweta says. For founders like Shweta, these regulations are the final piece of the puzzle, creating ‘a more transparent and organised market, which ultimately increases consumer confidence and accelerates adoption’.